After Paris, my husband and I took a short flight to his native country Serbia. I adore Serbia and this is now my third time in the capital city of Belgrade! I love it here for many reasons. One of them is that it is unspoiled by tourists and instagrammers (although probably not for long). Yes, Belgrade can be dreary and less attractive to the eye because of the brutalist architecture. Aside from that it has some of the most beautiful architecture along with the famous Saint Sava Cathedral and Kalamegdan Fortress. Belgrade also has an amazing coffee/cafe culture. Similarly to Paris, everyone sits outside and enjoys a coffee with friends. Another reason to love Belgrade is it is SO cheap! You can have dinner for two at the best restaurant in town for the equivalent of $50-60. The only downside I find is that people smoke everywhere! It is hard to find a bar or restaurant that is non smoking.
We stayed this time at the Square Nine hotel which is the top hotel in Belgrade. During our time we visited with Milan's Baba (grandmother) and his aunt and uncle. She is almost 93 years old but looks fantastic! I think it is a mix of good genes and fresh food.
Places to Eat and Drink:
Ambar: It is right on the Danube River along with a lot of other great restaurants. There is actually also an Ambar in Washington D.C. which we went to about a month ago! Great small plates and best cheese pie ever.
Franš: This place is an institution in Belgrade! It has a gorgeous outdoor seating area and the inside is just as nice. It reminds me a little of Tavern on The Green in New York but with better food.
Rakia Bar: This is THE place for Rakia in Belgrade! Rakia is a fruit brandy that is strong but delicious and low in calories. My favorite is apricot and raspberry but the quince is also nice.
ŠEŠIR MOJ: Meaning "My Hat" is located in the bohemian area of Skadarlija. Skadarlija is the Montmarte of Belgrade. This restaurant serves classic Serbian food and has a group of musicians come over to serenade you.
Little Bay: A wonderful little Serbian restaurant with a beautiful interior that resembles an Opera House.
?: Yes, Question Mark Restaurant. This is the oldest restaurant in Belgrade! If you want a really authentic Serbian experience, this is the place! Just be mindful of the smoking.
Klub književnika: AKA The Writer's Club is a beautiful and upscale restaurant. We ate a huge plate of meat here!
Sasa Bar: We found this place our last night and their ricotta gnocchi with beet sauce might have been my favorite dish of the trip!
Mali Kalamegdan: We drank some mulled wine here after a walk in the fortress. A beautiful place to sit outside in the park! When we were sitting here we started to see lanterns floating above our heads! No idea where they were coming from but it was magical.